E11EVEN pm.

I made it to the campsite.
 I ran what I could.
the storm was wild.
I just enjoyed the company of good people while I ate a warm meal.
The simple things keep me smiling.
I wish more people could experience the goodness and beauty of what they have.


Now in my tent, the storm has followed me here.
I find comfort in knowing I have laughed and smiled with other people who are nearby.
My time of solitude was...real; for quite a while I was the only person on this planet who knew where I was.

As this trip draws into it's closing stages I feel quite happy with what I brought. If I was to do it again I would bring more food though...Probably twice as many tortellini and oats, as well as more salami and cheese...some trail mix wouldn't go array either.

Ahh well, a life spent in hindsight is a depressing un-lived one. I'm happy to be here, to be warm and to have conquered what I set out to conquer.

FIVE 20 PM

The trees bending and breaking, falling exhausted to a determined tempest. My decision has been made; it's time to break camp and head to Cuernos. It is growing late to make this march but such is life out here.

4:55 PM, 10th November

Right now I'm huddled in my tent hoping for the storm to pass. The north fights the south in a battle of the winds outside. But how did it get to this? I'll explain.

So this morning I woke up at roughly 7:20, ate and set about getting a day pack ready for a little expedition up the valley of the frenches. I hiked up alone, finding a few people when I arrived at the first mirador; the wind was remarkably powerful; walking was useless so i crawled over the first mirador and made it to some shelter amongst the trees just below the ridge line. The wind was blunted by the trees allowing hiking to resume normally.

Another hour of hiking through snowy forest paths and I made it to the end of the valley, the second mirador.

The second mirador looked back on the Cuernos mountains, with Cerro Espada, Cerro Hoja, Cerro Mascara and Cuernos Norte all vanishing in the dark clouds; only to show their true form by sunlight.

Behind me on the opposite valley stood the darkest and most imposing mountain I've ever seen Cumbre Principal, 3050 metres  of jagged black rock jutting sinisterly through the clouds. After 20 minutes at the top I decided to head back down.

The way down was fast, running through the falling snow I stopped to dare myself to jump into a partly frozen river. I've swam across glacier rivers before but none that have frozen banks and bits of ice floating in them. It was refreshing and brought about that air of spontaneity born of all things off the cuff.

I sat in the snow beneath an overhang and played guitar, letting the breeze dry my skin.

After making it back to my tent I made some lunch and decided to battle the seemingly agitated wind by napping. That was three hours ago. In a moment I'll get up, if I see that the trees are fairing poorly in the now angry wind I might move on to Cuernos, in hopes of finding protection from the onslaught of the storm.

10:00pm, 9th november 2012

My lunch in the shelter of the refugio was well timed, allowing me to miss the most intense part of the storm. The walk here (where I am now), was beautiful, passing by 2 large lakes: Pehoe and Sckothsberg. The wind was fierce, although not as bad as 2 nights ago. The last leg of today took about 2 hours; I decided to go at a slightly slower pace, due to it being the first time I've walked with other humans! Kindred spirits, we walked as a fellowship of five., through wicker forests of chrcoal and bleached bone, through frozen tundra, the snow melting as it hit my lips moistening them against the cold dry air. The wind at our backs bearing us onward to deliver me lightly right here.

I put my tent up quickly as for it to remain dry against the smatterings of snow. After getting my home all set, I went about preparing dinner. First, the most exciting meal I've had in days! An Orange! I found 3 at the refugio and will enjoy one per day. The orange was delicious and sweet. Dinner was another 26 cheese tortillini, except I decided to wash them down with a few cups of warm milk.

I'm now sitting, no kneeling in my tent, writing this journal entry by headlamp, it's super dark outside as    the light patterings of snow have now turned to a heavy onslaught and the wind through the trees steam trains threatening to bend the poles of my tent to the point of breaking; My little shelter of green vulnerable in the dark night on the side of this ghostly tree filled hill.

Now to huddle up in me sleeping bag and wait for sleep to take me.

9th november, 2012.

It's started snowing, hard. I ate lunch about 20 minutes ago. A cup of coffee while I wait for the storm to pass; it's strange to be inside a structure not made of nylon.
I'm happy and warm, content with 26km I put in this morning.

9th November 2012. Early starts.

Having started soo early this morning, and being considerably fresh from an easy day yesterday and a good nights sleep I managed to smash through the first 11 km getting to the campsite before 9am. Obviously I decided to continue, hiking another 15 km. A storm brewing over grey glacier hard on my heals. driving me on ever faster to my goal, here a refugio on lake pehoe. I have found people.

it's just after midday.

9th november 5:45 am.

Today the solitude may come to an end. I've become good friends with myself but it might be time to find other travellers. My hike today will take me to the arm of the W circuit, the first  free campsite  where grey glacier falls into water.

I expect the road to become one with footprints ahead rather than just the ones I leave behind.

3:12pm 8th of November

Today was my most effortless day of hiking, the wind was gentle and the sun leant me the opportunities to feel the full 4 seasons in a day. Today I hiked to the grey glacier. Found a sheltered campsite and am now enjoying the fruits of an early start. I found some walls to climb around on, feeling free without my pack.

Tonight I'll eat a meagre meal, I need to save my food for the days when I'll be using energy just to keep warm.

Happy and content, a boy in the mountains followed the sun and found it's warmth.

6:45am, 8th of November.

It's morning, a more reasonable morning than the storm promised. I was woken a few short minutes ago by sunlight streaming through open vestibule. My weary eyes slowly taking in the destruction of lasts nights fury. Only 1 tree in the campsite is left standing. The rangers hut is partly crushed beneath a trunk over a metre in diameter. I'm here; that's good.

  Breakfast must start with some music, So I'll climb to the top of the last tree and smile at the sky for being kind haha.

3:42 AM thursday the 8th of November.

As you might notice by the time of this entry, something is amiss.

The night which started quietly has turned violent.

For the first time on this trip I feel unsafe. The wind a few minutes ago ripped the pegs of my vestibule out and snapped a tree near my tent.

I got out of my sleeping bag to re-peg and rock it, the moment I was out of my cocoon the elements exhibited what my thermostat could only suggest. The mercury sat at -14, the wind ran at 160km/h Laying on the cold damp ground to re peg a tent which was blowing away; my low centre of gravity making sure I didn't.

De-frosting back in my sleeping back, I'm writing this entry amidst holding the frame of this shelter together against the wind.

I look forward to sleep taking me. I hope it happens.

10:00pm Wednesday the 7th November

My lunch in the shelter of my tent fly swung up between a slight overhanging cliff and a tree was well timed, I missed the storm quite well. As I headed out it began to clear.

 The walk here (where I am now) was beautiful, I made one of the passes. navigating some dodgy ledges and a lot of snow before working my way through and over the glacier stopping at a nunatak to take in the beauty and slow my heart rate. I'm glad I spent the time to talk to the guides and rangers about crossing this glacier as it is filled with transverse, and longitudinal crevasses, the few of the snow bridges I tried seemed fickle under further inspection and I decided not to risk it, trending myself to a longer way around, just below the bergschrund. In order to cross.

Wednesday the 7th November 2012.

It's started snowing, I ate lunch bout 20 minutes ago. A cup of warm (powdered) milk, while I wait for the storm to pass, and now I'll head out. Out into the storm.

8:19 PM Tuesday the 6th of November...this year. extract from my journal.

Two days in. Last night I was too tired to eat, I got in late from the first leg of the hike. Set up camp in the dark and woke up in the dark this morning to continue; it's been a rough 24 hours but smooth seas never made a skilled sailor, and my efforts brought me here.


I'm sitting, back against a log with my feet up, watching the sun set over the glacier. Today was a very strenuous day of hiking, made all the more arduous by my lack of food. I am hungry but I need these rations to last a long way...until I find people/civilisation again. I ate 26 tortellini for dinner, hardly sufficient for a full day of hiking in patagonia.

I can't wait for breakfast, but...I'll have to. Avena (Oats) with milk will be amazing.

I wish I could convey exactly what I'm feeling right now. Everything is so still, peaceful, tranquil, like the deep breath before the plunge. I have never seen or felt a place so rugged. This, right now, makes me think of my vision for the future...just a fleeting dream I'd like to make real one day...

The first chapter of this trek is complete having gotten through two days of of hiking with only a couple hours of sleep between, I look out with a feeling of warmth and a realisation of my place in the world.
I imagine myself staring out the window of that log cabin later in life, my brothers and sisters of this nomadic life (companions) all equal in their own way, all staring out to. Content with a life lived for the moment, turning us all into wise humorous fools.

  The sun is being swallowed by the clouds before it get's the chance to disappear of it's own accord, a large storm front is moving in, and fast.

The aim of this trip is to find myself in the mountains, a man of this moment standing in solitude against the timeless ancients of solidarity. This trip will sharpen my will, strengthen my discipline and broaden my humour.

I must now go collect water for the night and make sure my camp is storm safe. Then it will be "Gentlemen to bed" hahaha.

These short films illustrate the terrain that I covered over the last two days.

Sunday 4th of November

I'm no longer in Punta arenas, I've moved up in the world...northward to puerto Natalas, and have spent the last day gathering the last supplies I'll need for this trip. Hiking boots, Fuel, and food being the main items.

  I've been talking to the rangers and guides who are experienced out here. I've planned a route for myself, looking at it now it seems stupid but if I manage to get through this I feel like I will have really got out of patagonia what I came here for, to get lost and survive.




  The outdoors has been my life, my whole life. Although the last 4 years it's definitely taken a larger step forward working in the squamish valley at an outdoor education centre. i don't pretend to be an expert, more a humours fool who loves the wind and faraway places of tho planet.

The normal circuit people take is called the W circuit, and it takes you up three major valleys to see three major attractions. The Grey Glacier, the French Valley and the Torres; free and paid campsites litter the way along with the odd 5 star hotel and Refugios (a hostel that includes hot meals and costs 28,000 per night for a bed in a dorm). This particular loop has been published in many a travel guide and has become a highway like, Kilimanjaro, everest base camp, and everest itself. The W is 68km and most guiding companies recommend doing it over 5 days. None of this seemed very attractive to me. The thought of being in the wild and stumbling across people hiking in jeans, toms and hoody out the front door of their 5 star accommodations, up a road to a mirador (viewpoint) only to turn around to their fortress, sit back and watch the sun set over a glass of wine, while people cook them a three course meal, didn't appeal to me at all.

So steering away form that I managed to work some sort of path with a topo map and a compass. It's not going to be front country, Jeans and a hoody will not cut it. I plan to hike on an old ranger track which hasn't been used in nearly 6 years. then pass over on the back trail of the full circuit which reconnect with the W. This trip will cover over 178 km and I'll be aiming to complete it in 9 days with the last 2 days finishing off with the W, so I still see all the major attractions. I don't expect to see anyone on the trail for the first week of walking. I'll have to walk fast.

I leave this morning, the journey begins now.

Saturday 3rd of November 1:20 PM

We're now well on our way to Punta arenas, our stopover in puerto Montt was thankfully quite brief. I keep having visions of myself on a plane headed back to australia, as if this was it. Yet I have no doubt the next 2 weeks will herald just as many adventures as any that has past.

Saturday the 3rd of November.

I said my goodbyes to everyone last night to everyone at the hostel, despite my, and it's (the hostel's) transient nature, the inhabitants had become my family, as did the town and the Moros off punta de Lobos. I had gained new eyes for this place, an incite that made the outside everything I could ever ask for.
  I've become a very recognisable character in Pichilemu under the name "Woody" with my alias in hand or under foot.

This wasn't goodbye forever, I knew my travels would bring me back here some day soon and with a little more time and spanish to soak up the bliss.

I was lucky enough to hitch a ride into Santiago with Nico and Carito, both amazing people whom I very much look forward to seeing again.

I stayed that night in a hostel in santiago, I didn't sleep at all; restless in a wave-fillled haze; was I making the right decision in heading further south? I'm a water kid, should I really trading everything I had for mountains and the unknown. Apparently man thrives in living in the unknown, so the next morning early I called a taxi and headed to santiago international airport, put my boards in storage, a bad idea if you're thinking of doing it, as it is COSTLY.

From there the whole world changed, me a 35litre backpack and my guitar. This would be my life for the next 2 weeks. Right now I'm sitting at my gate about to board my plane to Punta Arenas.

normally I'd be full of excitement, but right now I'm just missing pichilemu. I wonder what the next 2 weeks will hold.

I made some contacts for my return to Santiago, a beautiful girl from ireland has offered me a meal and warm blanket upon my return. the simple things - exactly what I'll treasure after whatever might be ahead.

Friday the 2nd of November.

I'm sitting here in the sunset hostel after one of the most beautiful nights in recent memory. These last days, weeks, in Pichilemu have been completely wondrous. I've been graced with the company and friendship of the most kindhearted, grounded individuals I've ever had the pleasure of meeting. Pichilemu will always hold a place in my soul.
Whose to say what gives a place its beauty, the people, the landscape, the lifestyle, I believe it's all these things and something else. An immeasurable entity, one that just makes you sit and smile, nodding to yourself with contentment at your discovery.

Friday THE SECOND of NOVEMBER

Nosotros Estamos Aquí.

A beautiful friend of mine taught me this today, as we sat espresso-ing in the sunshine watching the surf in reclining chairs.

Saturday the 26th October

Spent a few hours today surfing the afternoon green room of punta de lobos with Otis Carey and Ozzie Wright, who are in chile with M / S F / T Aid Chile. Rebuilding homes damaged in the earthquake. they'll head south tomorrow, in search of more waves.

I'm now sitting and eating an empanada, at El Quincho Del Ross, by far the best empanada place in town, the secret? Woodfired empanadas, an earthier healthier alternative.

I'm currently the only human staying at the hostel, making use of having the whole space to myself, starting a rock n' roll band in the basement with my ukulele and doing many a sun salutation.

L

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11:17 pm Wednesday 24th October.

I'm very reclined right now in my bed in the hostel. As I arrived into Pichilemu and caught my first glimpses of the ocean that would become my lover once again, Ghosts that we knew by Mumford and sons was playing. I managed to call Edwardo (owner of Sunset Hostel), who acme and picked me up at the bus terminal after 48 hours of travelling, I was finally here.

The digs are simple, but perfect. immediately after showing me to my empty dorm room, Edwardo, Phillip and I went for a surf at punta de lobos. I was greeted by a sight that nearly made me jump out of my skin with excitement, a setting sun turning 3-4ft hollow waves green and yellow. Edwardo borrowed one of my alaia's to see how it rode. I caught some of the most perfect waves of my life. Stopping between sets to pinch myself, confirming the reality: yes, I'm in Chile, yes I'm surfing Punta de lobos, yes it's perfect.

The surf was followed by an average in taste and extravagant in coin pizza.

I'm now happy to sleep, all stretched out.

11:59 am Wednesday 24th October.

I'm now on Turbus, I've collected all my bags and they are now stored beneath me Cerrados means closed, mahalo Juan Pablo Orrego.

The bus is passing a dry yet green landscape, heading south to the bustling city of santiago.

10:45 am. Wednesday 24th October, Day 1374 since I became a nomad.

Touch down in Santiago, spent the air time watching motorcycle diaries, maybe, just maybe, I'll keep one.

Recap.

The Following posts I've re-dated due to the fact of limited internet connection whilst on the road and also a sea change to something a little more in the moment, - a brown leather bound journal.
Forgive the time of silence.

-Woody.

Toronto

Sitting in Toronto airport for the last 14 hours has been an interesting experience, I spent a good measure of time sleeping on the floor, then noticing how empty the gate was that I had been sleeping in was, I decided to play some music, my noise attracted a few nice flight attendants who took my ragged garb and upturned top hat as a sign for busking, between them they gave me enough money to buy lunch. I was excited to find a fresh delhi where I could build my own gourmet sandwich, after getting food poisoning in taipei right before a 13 hour flight; I've become somewhat conscious of what I intake before being confined in tight spaces thirty thousand feet above sea level. After a good hour of playing music, I decided to do some journal writing, gazing out a frosted window at the rain painted tarmac. Beautiful people from foreign shores, sending me messages allowing the time to go quickly with a huge smile form ear to ear. Magnificent people in faraway places, keeping me warm with good vibes amongst this maze of bleached corridors and venal chairs.

Mahalo to you my friend.

Setting sail.

Heading out of Squamish, Vancouver international airport, here I come...again.

Freedom in flightfulness

Having spent the last four years living on the road. I've come to recognise a need for self sustainability on the run.

  These are some items I need to Keep me going:

- Tent (MSR Hubba Hubba - extremely lightweight 3 season tent for two people, incase you've got company or alternatively your gear on rainy days in the squamish valley)

- Rain Gear (Arcteryx Alpha SV, for severe conditions in the mountains or swampy skid sin the lowlands. Also a solid pair of ryan pants)

- Base Layers (Icebreaker, and Mountain designs merino base layers, they require less washing, and keep you warmer than anything, even when wet.)

-  Jackets (Wool sweaters, that are both lightweight and warm are good insulators. Complete the layered feeling with An 850 fill down vest and a North face down jacket for extra warmth in the alpine - so long as the down is kept dry)

- Wool Socks - A large assortment of vibrantly coloured wool socks, the crazier the better.

- Wool top hat - my flare.

- Sleeping mat - a half size inflatable thermarest, keeps my head to my thighs comfortable at nights, super lightweight and rolls into nothing.

- sleeping bag - a Kelty, super light 3 season down sleeping bag, good down to -11C but has kept me warm down to -20C. Packs to the size of a softball. I also use a thermolite bag liner for easy washability and a few degrees of extra warmth.)

- Guitalele - Music on the go, allows you to jam with whoever wherever, play some hawaiian classics or  flamenco with this versatile traveller friendly instrument; don't forget a capo for other people to use when you jam.)

- I pod +I home, for those long bus rides or time spent in a tent when the weather wants to give you some solace from everything. Chill in it.

- Macbook Air, Small lightweight and everything I need for organising the next leg of the journey, writing and keeping in touch with friends and family.

- Drawing book, doubling as my journal and sketchbook, keeps me busy and my walking documented.

- A birthday gift for a friend back home.

- Things that keep me stoked.
    - climbing shoes and chalk bag
    - Surfboard bag with 2 Alaia surfboards "uncle George" and "poi" both fairly recent constructions which have been tested in waters all around the world.

- A camera- for documenting those finer moments, I just have a point and shoot compact digital, it's light and does everything I need it to. it's a pentax Optio 80. It's waterproof, childproof, shockproof crushproof and Tylerproof).

- Shoes, 2 pairs. 1 pair of casual around the block Volleys and a pair of Merril Trail glove's for long hikes and comfort. I don't wear shoes often so mainly these just allow me to enter shops when need be.)

- A Stove for cooking on the cheap, cutlery includes a spoon and a set of chopsticks, a couple small puts and pans plus due bottle)

- A swiss army knife and whistle for emergencies.

- Some rope (Bear hangs etc)

- toiletries with a hip flask and set of playing cards.

THE BAGGAGE

At the moment I'll be travelling a little heavier than normal, right now I've got everything in 2 backpacks and then my large double board bag.

Spring breezes drifting away

There are no real goodbyes, not between friends.

morning mist, warm smiles, coffee and strangers turned old friends

Sitting here in a warm place, peering out through blankets of rain at mist shrouded mountains. I find myself flicking through the pages of my drawing book and sketching a landscape that sends whispers of the coast to my hungry ears, like the lyrics of sea shells.

 A smile from a girl I hadn't seen in over two years, averting my gaze from the mountains in the real world and the charcoal ocean of my created one. We both recognise each other from times long past, talking stories like we'd never parted. Surfing tales of warmer places always ending with how we wound up exactly where we are here, now.

 Life trends for the circle, allowing it's cliental to revisit warm people every once and a while, each time presenting themselves differently and hopefully with a little more kindness, kindness exhibited by that first smile, a smile to interrupt this warm place, peering out once more through blankets of rain at mist shrouded mountains, still caught harmoniously by that smile.

moments gone

I made a big mistake last weekend, it proved costly in more ways than one. Sometimes you've just got to get on with life and understand that you will not ever make that mistake again, own it and move on.

Shadows and dust, souling to a sea breeze.

The day, found me on a large piece of driftwood on the sound making sound warm in the sun.


Some times I play music in wedding tents like the video below.

tracks by the moonlight

Quickly before the mirage dissipates, and we wake up or worse, grow up. Home where children believe that a train could come to the aid of any of these quests, I do, and I will, always, and goodbye.

mornings, mist and shadow.

Rising before the sun, running through the forest to hear the whispers of the river as it creeps silently through the night, meditation by moonlight, a slow walk back along a pebbled road. Playing music to the creatures of the night watching from the shadows, accompanied by the distant howling of wolves, a smile and a light breeze pushing the sun up an unseen horizon. Frosted breath painting my lyrics in the sky. Where are you now?

back from the mountains

After a few days in the mountains, I find myself back in a sleepy town, clouds rolling in off the howe sound, street lights illuminating flower boxes petals free in the wind.

My thoughts fleet to far away places and the solitude of alpine land.
These are some of the moments that flash through my head from my recent wanderings.