Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Kamakani won't you blow.

One morning early I was working on the 13th floor, it's windy up there especially due to the fact that there are no walls, I friend of mine big wave surfer Laird Hamilton texted me saying, "Kahului Harbor third reef is breaking, The town of Haiku is going to rumble, I think Peahi is waking up." For the rest of the day I could not pay attention to anything I was doing, I had butterflies, my hands were shaking I couldn't settle myself I needed to get out, I needed to Surf this is why I was in maui because at certain times of the year it gets the largest waves in the world. By the time I finished at work it was getting late and the drive to Haiku takes over and hour and daylight was fading too fast. so instead I decided to go out at flemmings. Brian and I drove down, I had never seen anything like it up close. Even Cyclone wait didn't produce this size swell when it tore up the NSW coast. Flemmings Beach was getting the swell best, it rapped around the north headland and there was a bit of a rip which I could use once I rocked off.