Cold swell, provokes the stoke, freshens the breath.
Spent the last 4 days in tofino, surfing every moment I got the opportunity. A new patagonia R3 wetsuit making the frigid water bearable but my feel still screamed after four hours of numbness. Surfed Long Beach and Chestermens predominantly, spending the evenings bouldering and playing music. Taught some Fresh land humans how to surf and revelled in their joy at standing up for the first time, they are now both "hooked" they tell me, ready to buy their own gear and make it a life. So while tofino lacked is good swell, it did give sunshine (a rarity in those parts) and a smile to it's visitors.
Back in the mountains now. Wishing I had a shell to listen to the oceans call, at least then giving it some substance from the faint echo that resonates and bounces of the empty recesses of my head.