I'm very reclined right now in my bed in the hostel. As I arrived into Pichilemu and caught my first glimpses of the ocean that would become my lover once again, Ghosts that we knew by Mumford and sons was playing. I managed to call Edwardo (owner of Sunset Hostel), who acme and picked me up at the bus terminal after 48 hours of travelling, I was finally here.
The digs are simple, but perfect. immediately after showing me to my empty dorm room, Edwardo, Phillip and I went for a surf at punta de lobos. I was greeted by a sight that nearly made me jump out of my skin with excitement, a setting sun turning 3-4ft hollow waves green and yellow. Edwardo borrowed one of my alaia's to see how it rode. I caught some of the most perfect waves of my life. Stopping between sets to pinch myself, confirming the reality: yes, I'm in Chile, yes I'm surfing Punta de lobos, yes it's perfect.
The surf was followed by an average in taste and extravagant in coin pizza.