Monday, 5 November 2012

11:17 pm Wednesday 24th October.

I'm very reclined right now in my bed in the hostel. As I arrived into Pichilemu and caught my first glimpses of the ocean that would become my lover once again, Ghosts that we knew by Mumford and sons was playing. I managed to call Edwardo (owner of Sunset Hostel), who acme and picked me up at the bus terminal after 48 hours of travelling, I was finally here.

The digs are simple, but perfect. immediately after showing me to my empty dorm room, Edwardo, Phillip and I went for a surf at punta de lobos. I was greeted by a sight that nearly made me jump out of my skin with excitement, a setting sun turning 3-4ft hollow waves green and yellow. Edwardo borrowed one of my alaia's to see how it rode. I caught some of the most perfect waves of my life. Stopping between sets to pinch myself, confirming the reality: yes, I'm in Chile, yes I'm surfing Punta de lobos, yes it's perfect.

The surf was followed by an average in taste and extravagant in coin pizza.

I'm now happy to sleep, all stretched out.

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