A few days had past since the rugged adventures at flemmings and I was still quietly realising each moment, in my own little world of water. I heard a friend of mine Hamish Day talking in whispered tones to the Nakamura brothers, something about some aussie kid with a death wish or simply a need to abscond from the symmetry of the construction built life by throwing himself off walls of water...The topic of conversation changed as I walked past and Hamish shouted at me, "Aye dingo, I think honolua should be good today, just by the wind and swell direction; let's go check it after work". Kinda still in my own foamy bubble of sea water I nodded and walked off. For the rest of the day all I could think about was being amongst the motions of water once again.
We arrived at honolua around 5, it was perfect. Nothing but Straight lines wrapping themselves around the jagged point and tapering gently into the deep water of the bay. The white water pounded the rocks, hungry for a day dreaming kid standing high above mesmerised by it's simplistic yet dynamic beauty.
No one was in the water, probably the first alarm bell, Honolua bay is usually visited by...too many people; the wave breaks over three different sections as it moves in, the first is the point a somewhat forgiving take off with a gentle face that sometimes closes out before getting to the next section known as the Cave.
No comments:
Post a Comment